Uttar Pradesh / Varanasi: Preserved historical monuments are on the verge of becoming history due to government neglect

When the foundation stone of Kashi Vishwanath Dham project was laid in December, the Prime Minister termed it as historic. The Prime Minister said, ‘Today’s India is reclaiming its lost heritage.’ But is this really happening?

The Prime Minister also told some stories of the pride of Banaras during his speech. One of these was associated with the Banaras Rebellion of 1781 and Warren Hastings. The Prime Minister said that, ‘What the people of Kashi did to Warren Hastings even during the British era, it is known to the people of Kashi.’ But the memory of this glory saga is in a dilapidated state today.

As a witness to the 1781 Banaras Rebellion, the United Provinces government preserved the tombs of Lieutenants Stoker, Scott and Sykes behind the Chet Singh Fort. Although this crub was built by the British government in the memory of the soldiers, but it also cherishes the memory of the bravery of the Banaras.

After independence, the Government of India preserved these tombs as a monument under the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). It is one of the 18 historical heritage of Banaras which is protected by the Archaeological Survey of India in the district.

This heritage, inscribed in the list of ASI named Graves of European Soldiers, is in disrepair today. Once there used to be three graves, today only one grave is visible. The other two are broken. There is a pile of dirt around the grave, a bad rickshaw is standing in front and pebbles, stones and household waste are seen all around the grave.

Salim Mirza, who lives in the house adjacent to the memorial, says that he has been looking at this grave since childhood. Salim Mirza said, ‘Officers sometimes come to inspect, but the condition here has always been bad. The last time someone came here 4-5 years ago to check. If we keep cleaning, it is left.

There are 18 historical monuments protected by the Archaeological Survey of India in Varanasi district. Of these, 9 were made during the British period. The other nine monuments include Buddhist Stupa at Sarnath, Lal Khan’s Tomb, Man Mahal Observatory, Dharhara Mosque, Ancient Mud and Remains of Fine Brick Fort.

ASI Sub-Circle, Sarnath is responsible for the protection of these historical heritage, but seeing their condition today, it does not seem that any steps are being taken for conservation.

According to the Ministry of Culture, 2 out of 18 monuments are missing, but a search in the city reveals no whereabouts of 5 monuments and 7 others are facing the brunt of neglect.

Untraceable Monuments: Official List and Ground Reality
In 2015, the Ministry of Culture told Parliament that 24 of the ASI-protected heritage sites were “untraceable”. . However, the situation on the ground says something else. We tried to find these heritage through the addresses given in the list and public documents. Of the 18 protected heritage sites of Varanasi, there are five that are difficult to find in the city.

Apart from the tablet on the Treasury Building and the Buddhist ruins of Telia Nala, which are included in the government list – Cemetery (Chetganj), Mutini Memorial and Closed Cemetery (Rajghat) are missing from the city.

In the list, the address (location) of Mutiny Memorial is written only ‘Varanasi’. On which street or place to find these heritage sites in Varanasi, spread over an area of ​​82 square kilometers? Closed Cemetery (Rajghat) is located in the school premises of RS Foundation. This place is just a short distance from Lal Khan’s tomb. According to the school administration, one or two graves were visible till a few years ago, but today there is only forest at that place.

There are many graveyards in the Chetganj area of ​​Banaras. But no evidence was found that any of them were under ASI. The local residents also do not have information about the tomb of the soldiers.

Mess and mess

The condition of Graves of European Soldiers is bad. The situation of many other such monuments built in Banaras during the colonial period is no different. There is a pile of dirt around the monolith pillar located in Sampurnanand Sanskrit University. The statues of Rabindranath Tagore and Mahatma Gandhi, installed nearby, are also in a bad condition.

Another heritage in the ASI list is the Victoria Memorial located in Beniabagh Park. Recently the renovation of Beniabagh Park started, which is not yet completed.

The photo below is from 1 December 2021. It can be clearly seen in the photo how pebbles, bamboo-balls and similar related to construction are scattered near the monument protected by ASI. Amidst all this, the Victoria Memorial has been covered with a green sheet. Victoria Memorial covered amidst construction work in Beniabagh.

On being asked about this, the Public Relations Officer of Smart City Varanasi said, ‘The permission of the ASI administration was taken before starting the work in Beniabagh Park. Also, the standards set by ASI have been taken care of during the work. Landscaping will also be done around Victoria Memorial.

Ancient Mud (Tilampur) and Remains of Fine Brick Fort (Chandravati) included in the ASI heritage are two such heritage about which not much information is available. No attempt was made to raise public awareness about them.

According to some historians, Tilampur located near Sarnath was like an inn for pilgrims. This ancient mud protected by ASI is a proof of the historicity of this place.

Today in Tilampur, only a few boards have been installed near this mound, which tell that it is under the protection of ASI. However, there is no such board or indicator here which can explain its historical importance.

ASI’s board installed near the mound in Tilampur.
In the absence of this, the nearby tomb has made it a religious place by putting a green sheet on the mound. A specially capable young man has set up his shop near the mound.

On the condition of anonymity, the youth said, ‘A few years ago the officer had come for inspection. Objected to my Gumti… then an FIR was lodged in Sarnath police station. The inspector had come. The inspector tore the paper and threw it away. Said when it starts being made, you will remove it.

The situation in Remains of Fine Brick Fort (Chandravati) is even worse. Chandravati (ancient name Chandrapuri) situated on the banks of the Ganges is known as the birth place of Chandraprabhu, the 8th Jain Tirthankara. The ASI Protected Heritage Remains of Fine Brick Fort is located on the banks of the Ganges near the Shri Chandravati Tirtha Jinalaya. But there is no board or sign between the mountain and the bushes to indicate that it is a heritage protected by ASI. The places where fine bricks are visible on the mountain are surrounded by dirt.

Remains of Fine Bricks.

The next name in the story of the neglect of the ASI heritage of Banaras is that of Lieutenant Colonel Pogson’s Tomb. The address of this dome is found through the CAG report of the year 2013. It is located near Lahartara Railway Crossing (Gate No-4). This crossing is near Varanasi Cantonment Complex.

At first glance it looks like a tomb. Green colored visor and grave, green sheet on the tomb and incense sticks, incense and flowers have been offered on one side of the tomb. After talking to the nearby shopkeepers, it came to know that this place is known as ‘Colonel Baba’s Samadhi’.